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Truffle hunt
in Piedmont
The truffle hunt in Piedmont is one of the most fascinating aspects in the world of mushrooms. The cultivation of truffles is very difficult and does not bring the expected results. For this reason, hunting in different truffle areas is still the best way to harvest the precious underground mushroom. Finding truffles is not easy, there are very strict regulations to protect this culinary gift of the earth as well. But before we go into the truffle hunt and all its challenges, let’s first clarify some of the essentials.
What are truffles?
Truffle can be described as a mushroom that grows underground and is hard to get or find. Truffles belong to the tubular mushroom family.
In fact, it is an underground mushroom that grows near the roots of trees and can be very difficult to harvest as it is between 5 and 30 cm underground. For this reason, truffles are usually harvested in the wild by trained pigs (truffle pigs), but especially nowadays by dogs (truffle dogs).
In the forest, truffles form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of several tree species – especially beech, poplar, oak, birch, hornbeam, hazel and pine. These noble tubers prefer clay or calcareous soils that are well drained and neutral or alkaline. Depending on the type of truffle, they bear fruit all year round and, in contrast to above-ground mushrooms, do not form stems or caps. This means that the spore-containing part of the truffle is completely enclosed.
The origin of the word truffle seems to be the Latin term ‘tuber,’ meaning swelling or lump that later became ‘truffle’ and from which various European terms originated, such as the Italian word ‘tartufo’.
In Italy, the prized black and white winter truffles are found in Piedmont, Umbria, Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Lazio, Abruzzo and Molise. But can you just go and look for real truffles? Or what do aspiring collectors need to find truffles?
What do you need to find truffles?
THE TRUFFLE LICENCE
To obtain a permit to gather truffles in Italy or Piedmont, you must register with the UTR (regional authority) in your province of residence. The card or licence for truffle hunting is valid for five years from the date of issue. You can only receive it if you are over 14 years old and have passed the relevant test for truffle hunting. A fee must be paid each year.
The place and date of the exams can be requested at any time from the UTR, including information on training courses. The courses are organised by the park authorities and municipalities. The course teaches how to recognise and search for truffles in compliance with the legal regulations. The aptitude test should not be underestimated. If it is not passed, it can only be repeated 12 months later.
WHAT TOOLS DO I NEED TO HUNT FOR TRUFFLES?
Italian law prescribes a truffle collector some special tools to dig out the precious mushroom. These tools include the spade (truffle collector’s spade) and a small hoe to damage the soil and the delicate roots of the mushroom as little as possible. Once the truffles have been pulled out of the ground, the hole must also be filled with soil to allow new truffles to grow.
The transport of the truffles also requires special tools: either the typical truffle bag made specifically for truffles or a vest similar to those used by mushroom pickers. It is recommended to wear knee-high boots and appropriate clothing to protect yourself from thorns, stinging insects and snakes. A truffle collector should always carry gloves for safe digging, a stick and first-aid ointments.
WHICH DOGS ARE SUITABLE FOR TRUFFLE HUNTING?
Pigs were originally used for truffle hunting. Pigs have a very good sense of smell and can easily locate the underground mushrooms. But pigs have one disadvantage: They are greedy and immediately eat the truffles they find. Nevertheless, they played an important role in the truffle hunt for their efficiency and sense of smell.
On the noble farms, the pigs were first replaced by dogs: The faithful and tame friend of man is considered much more elegant and refined in his truffle hunt. The use of the dog spread quickly and the truffle pig was used less and less.
Today, the law prohibits the use of pigs in Italy because the animal causes great damage to the forest ecosystem during its excavations. The use of dogs is mandatory, as they are the only animal that can find the exact location of the truffle without damaging the ground.
In Italy, the law stipulates that the dog must be specially trained for truffle hunting.
A trained truffle tracking dog is therefore indispensable and training is not cheap, a well-trained dog can quickly cost up to 5000 euros. However, it is not mandatory to buy an already trained dog or to contact a professional dog handler. With great care and patience it is possible to train a dog yourself. If the dog is a puppy, you start with simple games that gradually become more complex exercises.
Every dog with a good nose is suitable for the truffle hunt, but characteristics such as intelligence, concentration, stamina and dedication are also very important. A dog needs all of this to master its training and prove itself to be a good truffle-sniffing dog.
However, tradition considers some breeds to be the best when it comes to finding truffles:
Bracco Italiano, English Pointer, Spinone Italiano, Cocker Spaniel, Jack Russel, Griffon and Lagotto Romagnolo.
THE CHALLENGES OF TRUFFLE HUNTING: HOW AND WHERE TO FIND THE WHITE ALBA TRUFFLE IN PIEDMONT?
Surrounded by the magnificent snow-capped mountains of the Alps, the famous truffle village of Alba is hilly and slightly mountainous. The best way to get here is by car. Alba and Barolo are one of the richest areas for white truffles, not to mention the hills of Asti (Palio di Asti) and Langhe.
Most of the time, however, simply knowing which plants are symbiotic with the truffle mushroom or where they are found is not enough to achieve a real success in collecting truffles in Piedmont.
It is necessary to know the land and the woods in Piedmont and truffle collectors must be able to avoid the dangers, with it. Dangers include ticks, thorns and spines, vipers, garbage and dangerous objects, as well as spiders and insects.
During the truffle season from September to December, hunters with trained dogs roam the countryside and sparse forests of Piedmont (Asti, Alba, Barolo, Barbaresco, La Morra, Neive) in search of the precious white Alba truffles.
Truffles need moist soil and tree roots to grow, or close to rivers or rivers. spikes. Truffles are not to be found in too dark forests with too little light. In order to grow, the truffles need to exchange resources with the plants, which need sunlight for the process of photosynthesis. In return, they provide the truffles with nutrients.
It is difficult to find soil with roots that are suitable for their growth. Each season and each type of truffle influences the truffle hunt in different ways – the climate, the soil and all the factors involved in the formation of white or black truffles. In order for truffles to grow optimally, the soil must have the following properties in addition to many other qualities:
- An alkaline pH
- A chalky soil
- Good ventilation
- Low vegetation surface
- High moisture
The truffle dog is also an absolutely crucial factor in your search. The truffle hunt usually takes place early in the morning or at night, when the dog’s sense of smell is at its highest. It is a very competitive business and at these times it is also easier to keep secret where you found the truffles. It is also a good idea to carry maps and a GPS device with you at all times to avoid losing your orientation early in the morning or in the evening.
WHAT KINDS OF TRUFFLES ARE THERE IN PIEDMONT AND WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO FIND TRUFFLES?
The three best-known varieties of truffles in Italy include:
FIRST White Alba truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico)
Shape and colour: They almost always have an irregular shape with a smooth, dirty-beige-coloured surface that ages to a brown. The colour of the white Alba truffle flesh is light, very brittle and varies from milky white to deep pink depending on the age of the tree with which it is in symbiosis.
Smell and taste: Musky and earthy with notes of garlic, honey, butter and forest soil. The smell of truffles is more intense, but the taste of truffles is finer than that of black truffles and it is more perishable. White Alba truffles should be eaten within a week of harvesting. They range from walnut to apple size and weigh up to 1 pound (0.45 kg).
They are eaten raw in small quantities, usually grated over pasta, risotto, eggs, salads or meat dishes. Just a few grams can give each recipe its own unique flavour.
They grow in symbiosis with oaks, hazelnut trees, poplars, willows and beech trees. They can reach a diameter of up to 12 cm and 500 g, but are usually much smaller.
Yields: The white truffle season starts at the end of September, but reaches its peak in October and November. It is illegal to sell them before September to ensure the quality.
2nd Black winter truffle (Tuber brumale Vitt.)
Shape and colour: The bark is black with light, low and flattened warts. The gleba is grey or brownish with white veins.
Aroma and taste: The bark is black: They have a delicate and intense aroma of earth, forest and mushrooms, unlike other summer truffles or the white winter truffles. Where the smell is more subtle, Black Winter Truffle convinces with much more intense aromas and a slight sweetness and nuttyness, without bitterness and its taste is full, round and pleasant. You can say that white truffles make up 80% fragrance and 20% taste. Black truffle is exactly the opposite: 20% aroma and 80% flavour.
They grow in symbiosis with hazelnut, oak, beech and hornbeam trees. They can be larger than an egg.
Harvest: January to March.
3. Black summer truffle (Tuber Aestivum Vitt.)
Shape and colour: They have a round, irregular shape with brown or black outer skin and pyramid-shaped warts about 3 to 9 mm wide, reminiscent of rough bark. Their meat can be milk, hazelnut-like or brown.
Aroma and taste: The aroma is more delicate than the black winter truffles and the taste is a little similar to that of porcini mushrooms. The flavour or intensity is around 20% compared to black winter truffles (Perigord truffles).
They grow symbiotically with oak, hornbeam, pine, ash, beech and hazel trees.
Harvest: Summer truffles are usually best in July, but they can also be found from May to October.
What is the difference between white and black truffles?
White truffle
People often ask themselves the question: White or black truffle?
White truffles are smooth with a slight yellow hue. They are the spicier of the two, with an intoxicating musk aroma and a garlic-like taste. Both the taste and smell of white truffles can easily overwhelm a dish. Therefore, they are usually sparingly shaved over pasta or used as a garnish. White truffles are served raw, as they lose taste and quality if they are too hot.
Black truffle
Black truffles have a rough, stiff appearance, similar to the bark of a tree. Its taste is more subtle than that of white truffles, accompanied by an earthy aroma. There are also some light nutty notes. Black truffles are easier to heat and typically go a little better in sauces.
WHAT DOES TRUFFLE COST?
White truffle is the more expensive of the two types of truffle. Prices usually range between EUR 150 and EUR 200 per 25 g, but depending on the season, they can be much higher. White truffles are rarer and can only thrive in very specific environments, which pushes up the price. The price of black truffles goes up to 9000 EUR per kilogram.
Because black truffles are a bit more flexible and can grow in different areas (and can also be bred more), black truffles tend to be a bit cheaper – around 50 EUR per 25 g.
At Di Bennardo, you can buy the highest quality white Alba truffles from October to December from 170 CHF.
How do you store truffles?
Ideally, the truffles should be used as fresh as possible. However, if they cannot be used immediately, they may be stored for several days (6 to 8 days) in a paper bag or clean towel (never in plastic or aluminium foil) in the refrigerator. Truffles should be cleaned with a soft brush before use to remove dirt and other impurities. However, this should only happen after storage, as the soil makes the truffle more durable. For a better tasting experience, the paper bag or towel should be changed daily, as moisture may escape.
A truffle can also be dipped in olive oil. The oil absorbs the taste, but the shelf life at room temperature without pasteurisation is limited. Traditionally, many people store truffles in glass containers filled with dry white rice. However, this is highly controversial, as the rice grains tend to deprive the truffles of moisture and flavour.
Why is the white truffle from Alba so expensive?
Apart from all the reasons, which depend entirely on the environment and the climate, the truffle hunt naturally also has an impact on the price. During the truffle hunt in Piedmont a dog has to be trained. Training the truffle dog for hunting requires time, posture and patience. Dogs must be taught to recognise the smell and taste of truffles so that they can find the noble mushrooms under many centimetres of ground while hunting truffles.
When do you get white truffle?
The white Alba truffles are rare truffles and are only available in Piedmont for a few months a year. Climate change is also contributing to changes in the conditions for truffles in Piedmont, with yields decreasing in some cases.
How is the demand?
Another reason why Alba truffles are so expensive is, of course, the demand on the market. The increasing demand and the difficulty of finding them is driving up the price of the rarer variety of Alba white truffle. Every year the International Fair of White Truffles is held in Piedmont. where the application for the sale of the truffles found is submitted, the quality is assessed and the white Alba truffles are then released at an estimated price.
SUMMARY
To sum up, truffles are expensive for the following reasons:
- Rare occurrence of soil with wet and exposed soil
- Presence of certain trees such as hazel, oak, poplar, lime tree
- Training of animals for truffle hunting such as dogs or pigs
- Application for the global food market
- Unique flavour, rarity and perishability of the product
- High global demand in top gastronomy
What food and wine do white truffles go with?
When the white truffles pass through the counter, the chefs in the top-class restaurant like to grate the truffle over lightly buttered noodles, creamy risottos, white fish, meat (especially veal and beef tartar), mashed potatoes, hearty cream sauces and Italian baking specialities, as well as omelettes or delicious salads. Here, less is more, because the food is not intended to mask the taste of the truffle, but to fully tickle the potential of this culinary miracle tuber on the palate.
What distinguishes Truffles from Di Bennardo
BUYING FRESH TRUFFLES IS A MATTER OF TRUST – AND BUYING FRESH TRUFFLES ONLINE EVEN MORE!
Only through the long-standing partnership with some of the best truffle collectors in Tuscany, in San Miniato and in Piedmont, can we guarantee the high quality of the white Alba truffle. With them, we have found partners who share our philosophy of quality, 100% naturalness and sustainability without exception.
Gourmets and foodies can buy fresh white Alba truffles online from October to December – we sell white truffles from 25 g or more.